Enjoy the riches of summer in seasonal, simple menu

By David Tanis

For The New York Times

Here is a menu for high summer, that glorious moment when all the season’s bounty is on display. The idea is to let natural flavor shine, to conjure up the south of France, somewhere along the Italian border, where simplicity reigns at the stove.

With all the great fresh produce — tomatoes, peppers, green beans, corn, basil — a menu like this one can come together with very little effort. I made a salad with cherry tomatoes of different colors and strips of roasted peppers, which could be served as a side, snack or part of an antipasto or buffet.

In France, home cooks rarely make their own tapenade, since it’s readily available, but it’s very easy to throw together. It can be hand chopped or pulsed in a food processor to a rough texture or a smooth one. The pungent combination of olives, garlic, capers and anchovy is a zesty condiment to have on hand — and it keeps. Turn this salad into bruschetta by spreading tapenade on warm garlic toast and spooning the tomato-pepper mixture on top. Otherwise, serve a little tapenade on the side to mix into the salad.

It is definitely time for a summery pasta al pesto, light and full of vegetables. Though most pesto recipes call for pine nuts or walnuts, I far prefer a simpler version, with basil, garlic, Parmesan and pecorino, swirled with olive oil and maybe a touch of lemon zest. I find it tastes brighter; if I want to add nuts, I might chop them coarsely to sprinkle over the pasta. But, usually, I don’t.

Now, consider green beans. Fresh summer ones are truly wonderful, and, if you can get them from your own vegetable garden, so much the better. They’re most tender when picked on the small side, so aim for that in the garden and at the farm stand. Standard Kentucky Blue Lake green beans are fine, but look for other varieties, such as French beans (haricots verts), yellow wax beans, Romano beans (Italian flat beans) and purple Royal Burgundy beans (they turn green when cooked). Here, they are paired with sweet corn kernels and tossed with spaghetti or linguine for a bright, basil-infused main.

As for dessert, I opt for a cake that requires no baking, a simple tiramisulike concoction of peaches and cream. Layered with store-bought ladyfingers, fresh peaches and a brandy syrup, it’s a creamy, boozy, fruity delight that can be prepared in advance and refrigerated, even a day ahead. If desired, sprinkle with toasted chopped almonds or pistachios just before serving. Cake may not sound very Provençal, but believe me, it’s the perfect finish for this summer meal: rich and sweet, cool and refreshing.

Tomato-Pepper Salad With Tapenade

This is perfect Provençal summer fare, with all the sweet flavors of the season. The tapenade, a pungent combination of olives, garlic, capers and anchovy, can be prepared by hand or in a food processor and can serve as a base to a bright salad of tomatoes and peppers. And it’s an ideal condiment for keep on hand, to pair with bright salads or serve over warm garlic toast.

Makes about 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

For the tapenade:

2 cups pitted black olives, such as Kalamata or Niçoise

2 tablespoons capers

4 anchovy fillets

2 garlic cloves, grated

Zest of 1 lemon, plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice

Pinch of ground cayenne

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more if necessary

For the vinaigrette:

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 small garlic cloves, grated

Salt and black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

For the tomato salad:

3 medium red or yellow bell peppers (preferably a mix), roasted, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch strips (see Tip)

1 teaspoon roughly chopped rosemary leaves

1/2 teaspoon roughly chopped thyme leaves

1 1/2 pounds cherry or grape tomatoes, in assorted colors, halved

Bread and garlic, for serving (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1: Make the tapenade: Put the olives, capers, anchovy fillets, garlic, lemon zest and juice, cayenne and olive oil in the bowl of a food processor.

2: Pulse briefly to make a rough paste, or let the machine run for a smoother mixture. (Alternatively, chop the ingredients by hand.) Transfer to a serving bowl. Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. Thin with a little olive oil to a spreadable consistency if necessary.

3: Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, put red wine vinegar, mustard, garlic, and a little salt and pepper. Stir to dissolve, then whisk in olive oil.

4: Make the salad: Put the roasted pepper in a salad bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then add the vinaigrette, rosemary and thyme. Toss well and let marinate for 5 minutes. Add the halved cherry tomatoes, salt lightly and toss with peppers.

5: Serve family-style and pass the tapenade alongside. Or serve on garlic-rubbed toast spread with tapenade (optional).

Tip: To make roasted bell peppers, place peppers directly on the flame of a gas stovetop burner set to high. Let skins blister and blacken, while turning peppers with tongs, until they’re evenly blackened, about 5 minutes. (Alternatively, place peppers under the broiler.) Once cool enough to handle, cut in half from top to bottom, then remove seeds and scrape away the blackened skin. Don’t rinse the peppers, just wipe off any bits of char with a paper towel.

Pesto Pasta With Corn and Green Beans

Fresh summer green beans are the best, and, if you can get them in your own vegetable garden, all the better. They’re most tender when picked on the small side, so aim for that in the garden and at the farm stand. Here, they combine with sweet corn kernels and a basil pesto for a luscious summer pasta that also happens to be nut-free: the pesto contains just parsley, basil, garlic, Parmesan, pecorino and olive oil.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

For the pasta:

Salt and black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups corn kernels (from about 3 ears corn)

1 pound linguine or spaghetti

1 pound green beans, cut in 2-inch pieces

For the pesto:

2 cups basil leaves

1/2 cup parsley leaves

3 garlic cloves, grated

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

1/2 cup grated pecorino, plus more for serving

Salt and black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

2: Make the pesto: Put basil, parsley, garlic and olive oil in the bowl of a food processor and blend until smooth. Stir in the grated cheese, and season well with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl.

3: Start the pasta: Melt butter in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add corn kernels, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring for 2 to 3 minutes. Set skillet aside.

4: Add pasta to the boiling pot of water and simmer briskly. When pasta is nearly done, add green beans and simmer for 2 minutes. (If preferred, cook beans in a separate pot.)

5: Reserve 1 cup of pasta water. Drain pasta and beans in a colander, then add to the skillet with the corn.

6: Add half of the pesto and toss well. Add a splash of pasta water and more pesto to taste, and toss to coat well. Transfer to a serving dish or individual bowls and serve immediately. For serving, mix more of the two types of grated cheese together and pass at the table.

No-Bake Peaches and Cream Cake

Like tiramisu, this simple-to-assemble dessert uses store-bought Italian ladyfingers available at many supermarkets. Made with fresh peaches and brandy, it’s a creamy, boozy, fruity delight that’s a perfect end to a summer meal. It’s also easily made without ever turning on the oven, just waiting in the fridge until ready to serve. If desired, sprinkle with toasted chopped almonds or pistachios just before serving.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

INGREDIENTS

For the syrup:

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup brandy or light rum

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

For the cake:

2 cups heavy cream

4 tablespoons powdered sugar, divided

1 cup crème fraîche

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 (15-ounce) container ricotta

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)

About 3 pounds ripe peaches, halved, pitted and cut in 1/2-inch slices

1/2 cup peach or apricot jam

1 package ladyfingers (24 ladyfingers)

DIRECTIONS

1: Make the syrup: Put wine and sugar in a small saucepan. Simmer over medium heat to dissolve sugar, then turn off heat. Stir in brandy and almond extract. Set aside to cool.

2: Prepare the cake: Put heavy cream in a mixing bowl with 2 tablespoons powdered sugar. With a hand mixer or whisk, whip the cream until soft peaks form, then gently mix in the crème fraîche with a spatula. Add almond extract and stir to combine. Taste for sweetness and adjust.

3: Put ricotta in a bowl. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons powdered sugar and the lemon zest, and stir to combine.

4: Put peach slices in a bowl. Add peach jam and toss to coat.

5: Build the cake: Place a 9-inch square pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Dip 12 ladyfingers, one at a time, into syrup on both sides, and arrange on the bottom the pan. Dollop half the ricotta evenly over the ladyfingers and spread evenly.

6: Make a layer of peach slices, using half the peaches. Spoon half the whipped cream mixture over everything and smooth with a spatula.

7: Dip remaining ladyfingers in syrup and arrange over the cream, then repeat the process with ricotta and peach slices. Drizzle any remaining syrup over. Finish with the remaining whipped cream mixture and smooth with a spatula. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight.

8: To serve, cut into squares or scoop with a large spoon.

Recipes by David Tanis.