Make your most beautiful Thanksgiving yet with 8 colorful dishes

By Andy Baraghani

For The New York Times

Every year, I tell myself I’m going to keep Thanksgiving simple, and every year, I fail. Not in the frantic way, but in that way where “simple” quickly turns into “well, maybe just one more dish.”

So I’ve stopped fighting it. The cooking part is the best part. (I mean, I love my family, but I see them all the time.) It’s the one day that still feels deeply analog — everyone crowded in the kitchen, things bubbling, the air heavy with butter, thyme and my husband Keith’s ’90s-filled playlist. And as a food writer and recipe creator, cooking is what I do for a living — and how I find calm, even when I’m doing it for a crowd.

This year’s menu channels that desire for abundance. It’s in every way more — fresher, more colorful and full of texture, a table that enlivens rather than lulls — but it’s also manageable, whether you make one dish or all of them.

This isn’t a reinvention of Thanksgiving, but it is a reminder that the meal doesn’t have to feel like a rerun. The dishes are familiar, but they’ve been lightened, brightened, given a pulse. The turkey gets a sweet-tart pomegranate glaze that looks like lacquered mahogany. The mashed potatoes are tinted gold with turmeric and sharp cheddar. Even the cranberry sauce, normally an afterthought, is finished with a drizzle of tahini that, you have to trust me, will make it the dish everyone’s talking about. It’s a mix of dishes that look good, taste even better and make the whole day feel like something worth celebrating rather than something to get through.

This year, I’ll be hosting in my new home, which adds a layer of stress, but mostly excitement. Keith is in charge of the table, flowers and most important, keeping me calm. My mother will be my right-hand in the kitchen. My in-laws will bring the wine and some boisterous New Jersey energy. If the turkey takes longer than expected, who cares! If the whipped cream’s too stiff, no one will notice. All the small things, they’re forgettable. There’s something bigger around this table that we’re here for, and that part is hard to mess up.

Even though I’ve hosted countless times, I know there will be stressful moments, but the entire holiday doesn’t have to be overwhelming.

 

Green Feta Dip

Feta dips can be sharp and salty, but this one is smoothed out with yogurt and a heap of soft herbs, turning it into something light, fluffy and very green. Think of this as a cross between whipped feta and an herby yogurt sauce: It’s bright, tangy and endlessly snackable. It’s gorgeous when finished with chopped pistachios, Aleppo chile and a drizzle of oil for crunch and color, but it’s just as good plain, scooped up with crackers or crunchy vegetables. It keeps well for a few days, which makes it an easy make-ahead for dinner parties (or simply for yourself — no shame).

Makes 3 cups

Total time: 15 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1 large lemon

1 garlic clove, finely grated

12 ounces feta in brine, crumbled (about 3 cups)

2 cups tender herbs (leaves and tender stems), such as dill, parsley and mint

3/4 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup finely chopped pistachios, for garnish

1 teaspoon Aleppo or other mild crushed chile, for garnish

Flaky sea salt, for garnish

Any combination of chips, crackers and crunchy vegetables, for serving

DIRECTIONS

1: Zest and juice the lemon into a food processor or blender.

2: Add the garlic, feta, herbs, yogurt and oil. Season with salt and pepper and pulse until you have a smooth, fluffy and bright green dip. Taste and adjust seasonings. At this point, the dip can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

3: If the dip was made ahead, add more lemon juice and salt to taste. Transfer the dip to a serving bowl and top with the pistachios, chile, flaky salt and a little more oil. Serve with any combination of chips, crackers and crunchy vegetables for dipping.

 

 

Pomegranate-Glazed Turkey With Brown Butter Gravy

A sticky pomegranate glaze that’s more like pomegranate molasses coats this turkey: It’s deep, tangy and sweet after the juice gets cooked down to a glossy concentrate. You start the bird off hot to get that prized bronzed skin, then drop the temperature so it can cook through gently without drying out. Browned butter gives the gravy a nutty backbone that pairs well with the fruity glaze.

Makes 10 to 12 servings

Total time: About 4 hours, plus 1 to 2 days’ brining

INGREDIENTS

For the turkey:

1/3 cup kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

3 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

1 (12- to 14-pound) turkey, patted dry

Extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil

 

For the pomegranate glaze:

2 cups pomegranate juice

1/2 cup honey

3 tablespoons soy sauce

6 thyme sprigs

4 garlic cloves, crushed

3 strips fresh orange peel

 

For the brown butter gravy:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 large shallots, thinly sliced into rings

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

6 cups turkey or chicken stock

2 to 3 thyme sprigs

2 tablespoons pomegranate juice, sherry vinegar or cider vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1: Brine the turkey: At least 12 hours and up to two days before cooking, combine the salt, pepper, sugar and thyme in a small bowl.

2: Place the turkey, breast side up, on a wire rack set inside a large rimmed baking sheet and pat very dry with paper towels. Sprinkle the salt mixture all over the turkey, including inside the cavity, patting to adhere and nudging some into the crevices. You might not need all of the dry brine, but it’s good to have extra since some of it will end up on the baking sheet. Refrigerate the turkey, uncovered, for at least 12 hours and up to 2 days. (This deeply seasons the bird and dries the skin for better browning.)

3: When you’re ready to cook, remove the turkey from the refrigerator and place it breast side up on a large foil-lined baking sheet fitted with a wire rack (or rinse and reuse the one it was on). Let it sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.

4: While the turkey sits at room temperature, make the pomegranate glaze: Combine the pomegranate juice, honey, soy sauce, thyme sprigs, garlic and orange peel in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, adjusting the heat to prevent the glaze from bubbling over, and stirring occasionally at first then more frequently as it reduces, until the glaze is glossy and reduced to the consistency of maple syrup, 25 to 30 minutes. You should have just over 1/2 cup. (The glaze can be made 3 days ahead; discard the thyme, orange peel and garlic before chilling and refrigerate in an airtight container.)

5: Heat the oven to 450 degrees once you’re ready to cook the turkey, with a rack set in the center of the oven.

6: Drizzle the turkey with oil, rubbing to coat evenly, then pour 1 cup water into the baking sheet. Roast the turkey until the skin begins to turn golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees, and continue roasting, brushing the turkey every 20 minutes or so with the pomegranate glaze, until the turkey is glossy and deeply golden brown all over and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 160 degrees, 65 to 85 minutes longer. The total cooking time will be between 1 1/2 to 2 hours total.

7: Transfer the turkey to a cutting board and let rest for 30 minutes before carving.

8: Make the gravy: In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and the butter has browned and smells nutty, 4 to 6 minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring often, until the roux goes from pale blond to golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes.

9: Slowly whisk in the stock, stopping to let it thicken and bubble before adding more. Bring the mixture to a simmer, add the thyme, pomegranate juice and soy sauce, and continue to cook, whisking often, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, 10 to 12 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Pick out and toss the thyme sprigs. (The gravy can also be made 3 days ahead: Reheat it in a saucepan over medium heat, tasting and adjusting the seasonings with salt, pepper, pomegranate juice and soy sauce.)

10: Serve the warm gravy alongside the turkey.

 

Roasted Winter Squash With Citrus Chile Crisp

This dish turns squash into the star of the table. The wedges roast until caramelized and tender, then get layered over a tangy bed of citrusy yogurt that cuts through their sweetness. The chile crisp — a mixture of shallots and garlic fried in oil until just golden then finished with crushed red pepper, sesame, paprika and lots of fresh zest from lemon and orange — brings heat, crunch and brightness all at once. Make the crisp ahead, holding off on the zest until the last minute, and you’ll find yourself spooning it over grilled chicken, a bowl of brothy beans, roasted potatoes, or really anything that could use a hit of spice and texture.

Makes 8 servings

Total time: 50 minutes

INGREDIENTS

4 pounds winter squash, such as butternut, honey nut, kabocha or red kuri

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced into rings

4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

2 teaspoons hot smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1 lemon

1 small orange

2 teaspoons honey

2 cups full-fat Greek yogurt

DIRECTIONS

1: Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut each squash in half through the root end, then use a spoon to scoop out the seeds. Cut each half into 2-inch-thick wedges.

2: Spread out the squash on a large rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 1/4 cup of oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss until well coated. Roast, flipping once, until golden brown and very tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

3: Meanwhile, combine the shallots, garlic and remaining 1/2 cup olive oil in a small saucepan or skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until the shallots begin to shrivel, crisp and turn golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat and sprinkle in the sesame seeds, paprika, crushed red peppers and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Let cool for 10 minutes.

4: Using a microplane, zest the entire lemon and half the orange directly into the chile crisp, then stir in the honey. (The chile crisp can be made up to 5 days ahead without the citrus zest; cover and chill. Bring to room temperature and stir in the zest just before serving.)

5: Cut the lemon and orange in halves and squeeze the juices into a medium bowl. Add the yogurt, season generously with salt and stir until smooth.

6: Spread the yogurt on a large platter, arrange the squash on top and drizzle with the chile crisp (or serve it on the side).

 

Golden Mashed Potatoes With Cheddar and Chives

Stained with turmeric and run through with heavy-handed additions of dairy, these potatoes don’t play it safe. Turmeric tints the cream an almost glowing gold, and a heap of sharp white cheddar melts straight into the mix, giving it both body and tang. They’re rich, yes, but not one-note, as the chives (or scallions, if that’s what you’ve got) cut through with a clean, oniony freshness. The only real rule here is to make sure you drain your potatoes quite well before combining them with your seasonings. Waterlogged potatoes will never absorb all that spiced cream and cheese, and you’ll be left with glue instead of mash. Beyond that, don’t overthink it: Mash them with a spoon or a masher, your weapon of choice. Perfection isn’t the goal, comfort is.

Makes 8 servings

Total time: 1 hour

INGREDIENTS

4 pounds large potatoes (preferably a mix of russet and Yukon Golds), scrubbed

Salt

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1 cup whole milk or buttermilk

1 1/2 teaspoons ground turmeric

Freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pats, plus more for serving

1 pound aged white cheddar, coarsely grated

1 small bunch chives, finely chopped, or 4 scallions, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS

1: Peel and cut the potatoes into 2-inch pieces. Place them in a large pot and pour in cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add a large handful of salt — the water should be quite salty, like pasta water — and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium-high and simmer until all the potatoes are tender enough to be pierced easily with a paring knife, but not falling apart, 15 to 18 minutes.

2: Meanwhile, combine the cream, milk and turmeric in a small saucepan. Season with salt and lots of pepper and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking often, until the turmeric stains the mixture a wonderful golden color and the liquid starts to steam, about 3 minutes.

3: Drain the potatoes really well to get as much moisture out as possible. For smooth mashed potatoes, pass them through a ricer back into the pot; for a more rustic mash, return the drained potatoes to the pot and mash with a potato masher or wooden spoon until mostly smooth, with a few small lumps if you like.

4: Scatter the butter over the hot potatoes and stir until all the butter has melted and disappeared. Working in batches, gradually add the cream mixture and cheese, taking the time to stop and stir until the potatoes have absorbed all the liquid and the cheese, making sure not to overstir. Taste and adjust with more salt and pepper.

5: Transfer to a serving bowl, top with a pat of butter, and scatter with chives and more pepper before serving.

 

Spicy Coconut Pilaf With Crispy Kale

This is the kind of rice dish that can hold its own at the center of the table. Coconut milk makes the pilaf rich and fragrant, while kale bakes into salty, lacy shards that give you crunch in every bite — the exact contrast fluffy rice always begs for. Soaking the rice cannot be skipped as it helps the grains stay long, separate and restaurant-perfect. And when it comes to the kale, give it a good massage with oil before roasting. It may feel unnecessary, but it makes the difference between leathery leaves and perfectly crisp chips.

Makes 8 servings

Total time: 1 hour, 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS

3 cups long-grain rice, such as basmati or jasmine

1 bunch kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves torn into large bites

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons virgin (unrefined) coconut oil or vegetable oil

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 large shallots, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 serrano chile or bird’s-eye chile, thinly sliced

1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped (2 tablespoons)

1 (13.5-ounce) can unsweetened coconut milk

1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems

DIRECTIONS

1: Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with lukewarm water. Using your hands, agitate the rice to remove the excess starch until the water is cloudy. Drain and repeat three or four times until the water is more clear. Cover again with water by 2 inches and soak for 30 minutes.

2: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the kale on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of oil and season with salt to taste. Massage and toss the kale, making sure each leaf is well coated. Bake, tossing once or twice using tongs or a metal spatula, until the kale has shriveled and become crisp, 12 to 15 minutes. (Kale chips can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and store in an airtight container.)

3: While the kale is baking, make the coconut rice: Heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil in a heavy-bottomed pot with a lid or Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden in spots, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic, chile and ginger, and cook, stirring, until the garlic and chiles have softened but haven’t taken on any color, another minute or so.

4: Drain the rice well, then stir it into the pot with the coconut milk, 2 1/2 cups water and 2 1/2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. As soon as the rice comes to a simmer, give it a few stirs to ensure the rice doesn’t stick to the bottom, then reduce heat to the lowest setting. Cover and cook, without peeking, for 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit (still covered) for 10 minutes.

5: When you’re ready to serve, fluff the coconut pilaf onto a large platter, top with half the kale chips and the cilantro, and serve the remaining chips on the side for extra crunch.

 

Brussels Sprouts Buried in Cream

Brussels sprouts love fat, and here they get it in the best way: buried under cream that’s been reduced until thick, then sharpened with a swipe of lemon zest so it doesn’t all slump into heaviness. Charring the sprouts first gives them a slightly bitter edge to balance out the richness, while leeks and garlic melt into the background. A blanket of crisp breadcrumbs seals it all in, so when it comes out of the oven, you’ve got a dish that’s part gratin, part creamed vegetable and fully irresistible.

Makes 8 servings

Total time: 55 minutes

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

3 medium leeks, white and pale green parts, trimmed, halved lengthwise and coarsely chopped

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup coarse fresh or dried breadcrumbs or panko breadcrumbs

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

DIRECTIONS

1: Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

2: Heat 1/4 cup oil in a large high-sided skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring occasionally, until charred in some spots, 5 to 7 minutes.

3: Add the leeks and garlic, and cook, stirring, until they’ve softened a bit but haven’t taken on too much color, about 3 minutes.

4: Reduce heat to medium heat and pour in the cream. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cream has reduced by half and is thick enough to coat the sprouts, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest, season with salt and pepper and give it taste. You want to make sure the Brussels are deeply seasoned before going into the oven. Remove from the heat and transfer the Brussels sprouts mixture to a shallow 2-quart baking dish. (This mixture can be assembled, covered and refrigerated up to 1 day ahead. Bring to room temperature before topping with the breadcrumb mixture and baking.)

5: In a medium bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, parsley and remaining 1/4 cup oil. Season with salt and pepper.

6: Scatter the breadcrumb mixture over the Brussels sprouts. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake, uncovered, until the top is golden brown and crisp, 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes before serving.

 

Honeyed Cranberries With Tahini

Cranberries are one of the few fruits that are almost exclusively eaten cooked, and it’s because of their natural pectin: Once the cranberries hit heat with sugar (or in this case, honey), they break down and set up into that familiar jammy sauce. Usually that’s where the story ends but here, ground cardamom sneaks in for some warm spice. And instead of the usual orange zest or clove, the cranberries get finished with a generous drizzle of tahini. The nutty, fatty richness of the tahini softens the fruit’s sharp edge and makes the whole thing taste bigger, rounder and more grownup.

Makes 3 cups

INGREDIENTS

1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries

1 cup honey

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

Small pinch kosher salt

1/2 cup tahini

DIRECTIONS

1: Place the cranberries, honey, lemon juice, cardamom, salt and 1/4 cup water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high.

2: Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until cranberries burst and the mixture is quite juicy, 2 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook, still stirring frequently, until the sauce goes from very runny and juicy to syrupy and jammy, 12 to 15 minutes. (Cranberries can be made up to 5 days ahead. Let them cool, then cover with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic directly onto the cranberries, and chill.)

3: Transfer to a serving bowl and let cool for about 1 hour before drizzling tahini on top.

 

Olive Oil Pumpkin Cake With Salted Maple Cream

If pumpkin pie feels tired, this cake is the upgrade: It’s plush and deeply spiced without veering into heaviness, the kind of dessert that feels just as welcome at a holiday table as it does on a random Tuesday night. The salted maple whipped cream is what makes it sing, adding a cool, fluffy richness to balance the spice. (Sneak some bites but please, do your best to get as much of it onto the cake as possible.) Like most oil-based cakes, this pumpkin cake actually improves with time, so don’t hesitate to bake it a day ahead; the flavors settle in and the crumb gets even more tender.

Makes 8 servings

Total time: About 1 1/2 hours

INGREDIENTS

For the cake:

2 1/4 cups/274 grams all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup/195 grams sugar

3 large eggs, room temperature

1 1/2 cups/345 grams canned pumpkin puree

3/4 cup/177 milliliters extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

 

For the whipped cream:

1 1/2 cups/355 milliliters heavy cream

1/2 cup/115 grams sour cream

3 tablespoons maple syrup, plus more for drizzling

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

Flaky salt (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1: Make the cake: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a 9-inch springform pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.

2: Whisk flour, cinnamon, baking powder, nutmeg, salt and baking soda in a medium bowl to remove any lumps.

3: Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment (or electric hand mixer) on high speed, beat the sugar and eggs until very pale and thick and the mixture forms ribbons back on itself when lifted, 3 to 4 minutes. (This may take longer if using a hand mixer.) Add the pumpkin puree in two batches, beating on low until combined.

4: With the mixer still on low, gradually stream in the oil, then beat in the vanilla. The batter should look a little thicker.

5: Working in two batches, add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed, stopping and scraping down sides in between, until no streaks remain. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake until the top is firm and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes.

6: Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then run a knife around the edge and release. Cool completely for at least 1 hour before serving. (If working ahead, wrap the cake entirely in plastic and store at room temperature for up to 3 days, until ready to serve.)

7: Just before serving, make the whipped cream: Use a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, hand mixer or just a plain whisk (yes!) to beat the heavy cream until you reach soft, floppy peaks. Add the sour cream, maple syrup and a pinch of kosher salt and whisk to nearly stiff peaks.

8: Using a rubber spatula, plop the cream onto the cooled cake and spread it out, keeping some swoops and waves. Drizzle with more maple syrup and finish with flaky salt, if you like, just before serving.

Recipes by Andy Baraghani.