Kitchen Shrink: Foods that age gracefully – Proof that getting older can be better

Who doesn’t love tender young offerings like fragrant herbs and baby shoots snipped straight from the garden, freshly made sweet creamy burrata that practically does a Tarantella in your mouth, and day-caught fish that had been swimming in the Pacific just hours before you slap it on the grill. We’re living in a culture obsessed with all things fresh and new yet also restless and impulsive wanting things instantly—picked, packaged, delivered, and prepared pronto!

With this backstory on impatience, it seems almost rebellious to praise the culinary slow pokes that have evolved into some of the most beloved foods around the globe thanks to time and treasured traditions. Patience is a virtue for these butchers, bakers, wine and cheesemakers crafting curated masterpieces with a richness and complexity of flavors, textures, and aromas. Some things just get better as they age into a sublime refinement. It’s a new year folks, so let’s celebrate getting older with our gastronomic Methuselahs as inspiring role models!

Looking Sharp

Fresh cheeses like ricotta and mozzarella are mouth-wateringly divine, but when milk, salt, enzymes, and time party together nothing beats the nutty and savory flavors, and complex textures of aged cheeses. So, pick your poison: beauties from Italy, particularly Parmigiano-Reggiano reaching its second and third birthdays transforms into a crumbly, golden block bursting with umami crystals; Grana Padano is slightly milder, while Pecorino Romano (sheep’s milk) is slightly saltier.

A well-aged Cheddar at 12 to 36 months shows off a deep rich color, and sharp, intense flavors; nicely matured Gouda from the Netherlands exudes smoky, caramelly, butterscotch notes; Swiss Gruyère provides a nutty, savory depth; Roquefort hailing from the south of France proudly shouts a sharp, salty tang; Norwegian Jarlsberg whispers a lightly sweet, mild-mannered, buttery essence; while English Stilton offers a rich, crumbly, complex delight. Aged cheeses pair well with wine, beer, and cognac, but it’s the bold flavors, crystalline crunch, and digestibility (lower lactose content) that pulls people into the marvelous world of aged cheeses and hooks them forever.

Loafing Around

Most breads are coveted for their freshness, warm and squishy as they roll out of the oven, the aroma testing all powers of impulse control. But sourdough is a complicated creation—its tangy and sour flavor balanced with mild, sweet, floral notes, and an irresistible chewiness with a golden earthy crust all a testament of time. Some sourdough bakers boast about their century-old starters—that’s right—100 years. This living colony of wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria needs to be tenderly cared for and continually fed with fresh flour and water allowing the original starter to pass along its ancient microbes into each new feeding. The dough then requires time to ferment, building acids slowly, developing character and depth that beat the pants off of quick-rising breads. Sourdough actually honors time twice—in the age of the starter and the length of fermentation to cultivate a truly fine loaf.

Roll out the Barrel

Young immature vinegar ideal for pickling and fermenting tends to be overly acidic, one-dimensional, and quite frankly, boring, while its aged cousins have mellowed over time creating a harmonious sweet and tart balance with a smooth woody complexity. The beloved balsamic ages for decades in wooden barrels whether oak, chestnut, cherry, or mulberry becoming thick, sweet, and smooth with an intensity of flavors. A little drop will do you in a classic vinaigrette (recipe below) for brightening green or caprese salads, or used as a multi-purpose marinade, while rich syrupy balsamic glazes drizzled on grilled fish, fowls, and meats of all manners, roasted vegetables, and even on gelatos or cheesecakes provide a surprising oomph of fruity caramel notes.

Living High on the Hog

Aging meats began as a way to preserve them long before refrigeration. The mild Mediterranean clime and moist fragrant air of the bucolic hills surrounding Parma, Italy proved ideal for curing, and generations of skilled butchers perfected the craft of charcuterie. From this tradition comes prosciutto made from the hind leg of an Italian hog and now a culinary icon. Smoking and fermenting later added meats like salami and Speck to the repertoire. As these meats age, enzymes and beneficial bacteria mellow the saltiness, deepen the flavor, and transform the fat into rich mouth-watering silky ribbons. These charcuterie beauties pair well with aged cheeses like Parmesan or Gouda, crusty bread, olives, nuts, and seasonal fruits, washed down nicely with a glass of red wine or a sip of cognac.

“Food of the Gods”

Single-sourced dark chocolate with a cocoa content of 70% or higher develops a complexity much like wine and cheese when properly aged over years. These morsels mature with deep and sophisticated floral notes, a velvety texture, and a mellow disposition softening the harsh bitterness. Need I twist your arm.

Time in a Bottle

While some wines are meant to be nursed when they’re young and crisp, especially rosés, fruity reds, and light whites, others like fortified wines, structured reds, and heartier whites reflect the true beauty of aging only to be savored after the passing of many years, even decades. Time mellows the primary fruit flavors creating layers of rich nuances with nutty, spicy, honey, and earthy notes, and softens the harsh edges of tannins extracted from the grape skins and seeds, making a smoother wine balancing acidity and creating a richer more complex aroma and color. Of course, these oldies but goodies have to be properly stored at a stable temperature (around 55°F) with 60% to 70% humidity and, at last, enjoyed like Baby Bear’s porridge—not too young, not too old, just at the right window of optimal maturity. Cheers!

Balsamic Vinaigretteserves 4

1/3-cup balsamic vinegar½-cup walnut oil1-tbsp. minced chives1-tsp. minced fresh basil1-tsp. stone ground mustard2-tbsp. maple syrup1-tbsp. crushed walnutssalt & ground black pepper to taste

Combine ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk together well.

Courtesy—Chef Bernard Guillas